The Subversive Thread: Redefining craft and fine art at the Academy Art Museum

By now, everyone has heard about/been to/or plans to see the outstanding Bugatti exhibit at the Academy Art Museum (AAM) in Easton. But while there or returning for another visit, venture down the hall to the other amazing and groundbreaking show, The Subversive Thread, an exhibit that challenges the boundary between fine art and craft.  Curated by AAM’s Deputy Director, Jennifer Chrzanowski, this initiative aligns with AAM’s mission to explore new avenues of artistic expression and foster conversations that resonate far beyond its walls.

The Subversive Thread is more than just an exhibit; it’s a statement. As described in the Museum’s catalog, this exhibit was organized in conjunction with the Museum’s 27th Annual Craft Show and represents a pioneering effort for AAM to elevate contemporary craft as a serious artistic medium. Showcasing the works of four innovative artists—Han Cao, Jennifer McBrien, Michael-Birch Pierce, and Stacey Lee Weber— Chrzanowski has created a space that pushes the boundaries of what craft can represent.

Stacey Lee Weber

“I’ve been organizing the craft show here for seven years,” Chrzanowski said. “While my background is in photography and contemporary art, working on the craft show introduced me to fine craft in a genuinely exciting way. The idea for this exhibit grew from realizing that while we have this incredible craft show, we were missing exhibitions that truly highlight fine craft.”

This realization led Chrzanowski to propose the idea of an embroidery-focused exhibit. She initially pitched the concept to the Westobou Gallery in Augusta, Georgia, which provided a stipend and a platform for her to test the idea. The overwhelmingly positive response there confirmed what she had suspected: the time was right to bring such an exhibition to Easton.

Each artist in The Subversive Thread contributes a unique perspective, subverting traditional boundaries in fiber and thread art in their own way by using unconventional textiles and techniques. For instance, Stacey Lee Weber’s work revolves around American currency. Using uncut bills, Weber creates intricate embroideries that challenge notions of value and representation. “Her work is technically illegal,” Chrzanowski said, referring to laws against defacing currency. “But by using thread through actual American money, she invites viewers to question the symbols of capitalism and commerce.”

Michael-Birch Pierce’s work explores identity and deception. A standout piece is the triptych of drag queen portraits, which transitions from fully made-up faces to dissolving beadwork. “It’s about stripping away the artifice,” Chrzanowski said. “Without the makeup and the layers of performance, what remains? Their work challenges us to think about authenticity and the roles we play.”

Michael-Birch Pierce

Artist Jennifer McBrien explores themes of conservation and fragility. Her “Hanging Them Out to Dry” installation features endangered birds embroidered on vintage handkerchiefs (some of them stained), hung on a clothesline. The piece feels both nostalgic and sad. “Jennifer is using this medium of the vintage handkerchief—something you would use, wash, and reuse—but that’s become extinct like these birds. And she has them in order, like the most endangered to the least endangered.” Chrzanowski said. The same ideas are present in McBrien’s “Warrior Women.” Part bird and part woman, the hybrid forms also symbolize loss and resilience. “She created these fighting figures during her cancer treatment, and her female forms carry medicinal herbs in their bellies, symbolizing the medicine she used during her healing.”

Han Cao rounds out the exhibit with her quirky work. She creates her visions using photographs and postcards found at flea markets and antique shops across the globe, hand embroidering directly on the original image. Cao seems to ask the viewers to reflect on memory, humor, and the passage of time. 

Jennifer McBrien

The interaction of traditional techniques with contemporary materials and themes is central to the exhibit’s impact. “Craft has historically been viewed as separate from fine art,” Chrzanowski said. “But we’re at a fascinating moment where those boundaries are blurring. Artists are revisiting traditional techniques like embroidery and quilting but using them to tackle very modern issues. This exhibit is a snapshot of that evolution.”

The Subversive Thread‘s themes, which range from identity and labor to capitalism and environmentalism, reveal the versatility and relevance of fiber and thread art. “For a long time, craft was relegated to the status of a pastime,” Chrzanowski said. “But now we’re seeing it evolve into something that can carry powerful messages and provoke thought in ways that are incredibly accessible.”

Accessibility is a key takeaway for Chrzanowski. “One of the things I love about this exhibit is how it bridges the gap between high art and something people can relate to,” she said. “Many people embroider, knit, or craft at home as a way to unwind. This exhibit elevates those practices, showing that they can be just as impactful and meaningful as traditional fine art.”

Han Cao

The community’s response to The Subversive Thread has been overwhelmingly positive. “When the exhibit was in Georgia, I couldn’t see the audience’s reactions firsthand. But here in Easton, I’ve had the chance to overhear people talking about how much they love it. That’s the most rewarding part for me—knowing we’ve brought something new and exciting to the area,” Chrzanowski said.

This exhibit also represents a shift for the Academy Art Museum itself. Historically, the craft show has been a separate program, distinct from the Museum’s exhibition calendar. The Subversive Thread changes that dynamic by integrating a craft-based show into the Museum’s broader programming. “Our goal is to make the craft show feel like more than just an event,” Chrzanowski said. “With this exhibit, it becomes part of a unified project that highlights the depth and diversity of craft.”

This exhibit could be just the beginning. “We want to showcase the innovation happening in current craft practices and continue fostering conversations about how craft and fine art intersect,” Chrzanowski said

The Subversive Thread invites visitors to see craft in a new light. As Chrzanowski put it, “I want people to leave feeling inspired, not just by the work in the exhibit but by the potential in their own creative pursuits. Craft is accessible. It’s something you can take away and do at home. And that’s a powerful message.”

The Subversive Thread runs now through March 30th at the Academy Art Museum (https://academyartmuseum.org)