Over the last decade, the art fair tote bag has quietly declined—in quality, in quantity and, most heartbreakingly, in spirit. Once a democratic emblem of cultural participation, the humble fair tote now appears in dwindling numbers, handed out with the kind of discretion once reserved for champagne flutes or VIP credentials. While no one at Art Basel has thought to include tote metrics in their annual market report (a missed opportunity, frankly), the evidence is tactile and devastating: fewer totes, thinner cotton, cheaper stitching, smaller fonts.
The tote used to greet you at the door—stacked proudly, printed crisply, ready to be stuffed with press releases and sparkling
Let me admit: I’m a tote devotee. I collect them, carry them, judge them and occasionally archive them like sacred texts. They’re not just bags—they’re proof of presence, soft monuments to where one’s cultural capital has traveled. The tote, for me, is as much an artifact as the art itself: it bears the names of institutions, fairs and sponsors like a map of where we’ve been and who we’ve been told to care about.
This May, at TEFAF New York, I arrived during VIP hours, ready to claim my annual souvenir—the TEFAF tote, my symbolic certificate of attendance. “We’ve run out,” said the staffer, apologetically. They had printed just two hundred. Two hundred totes for one of the most opulent fairs in the country. A fair that spends tens of thousands on florals and champagne had decided the reusable bag was too extravagant. The tote—the smallest gesture of inclusion—had been rationed out of existence.
Later that same month, at Independent New York, I went in primed to redeem the experience. The Independent tote has always carried a certain minimalist prestige—crisp type, good handles, something you actually want to reuse. But when I approached the press desk, I was told they, too, had “just run out.” When I asked how many they’d made, the answer was three hundred. Three hundred totes for an entire art fair. The person at the desk looked almost embarrassed, offering me a map instead. I remember thinking: a tote shortage is one thing, but an apology from the press desk for running out of cotton? That’s new.
By September, when Independent 20th Century opened, I was prepared for disappointment. I arrived early, badge in hand, hopeful but realistic. This time, I was told they had printed five hundred, a “generous” increase from the spring fair’s three hundred. Yet when I asked for one, the press desk smiled apologetically—they didn’t have any. Later I found out through fair intel that the bags were being “saved” for attendees of the lecture series. Totes as reward for intellectual participation. A cotton-based loyalty program. Another form of gatekeeping dressed up as curation.
After that, I decided to make it official. I reached out to every major art fair—Art Basel, Frieze, TEFAF and Independent—to ask about their tote production numbers. TEFAF politely declined to comment. Art Basel has yet to respond. Frieze sent a friendly note and said they would try to look into it. Independent never replied. It was like emailing the Vatican about communion wafers.
Then I went on to dig further. Some fairs sell totes, which to me is baffling. In the Frieze online shop, the Frieze London 2024 tote retails for £25 plus shipping. In fact, for the price of a VIP ticket to Independent and an extra $20 plus tax if you were willing to shell it out, they would sell you a fair tote, which seemed beyond ridiculous. It also offered no preview of the tote either.
And the irony? The scarcity certainly isn’t financial. A bulk-produced tote costs between $0.75 and $2.50 to manufacture—pennies in the context of booth fees, sponsorship budgets and $30 flutes of champagne. This isn’t about cost; it’s about control. The tote, like the art itself, has been reclassified as a limited edition.
The environmental justification doesn’t entirely hold, either. A 2018 study by Denmark’s Ministry of Environment found that an organic cotton tote must be used 20,000 times—daily for fifty-four years—to offset the carbon impact of its own production. Sustainability has become another form of virtue signaling and the tote its canvas.
It wasn’t always this way. In 2007, British designer Anya Hindmarch’s I’m Not a Plastic Bag project turned the reusable tote into a form of low-cost activism. Sold for £5 in supermarkets, it became an instant cultural symbol of environmental awareness—and a democratized badge of belonging. The art world adopted it soon after, transforming the tote into its own symbolic economy: proof of access, evidence of being “in the room.”
But now, that same token of inclusion has been redesigned into a hierarchy. Even Frieze and Art Basel have begun selling their totes outright—$50 and up for a branded canvas bag that once came free with your lanyard. To pay for a tote feels antithetical to the whole spirit of the art fair, but maybe that’s the point: generosity, too, has been monetized.
The tote used to be a bridge—a small object that connected the insider and the outsider, the collector and the critic, the visitor and the VIP. It was a portable souvenir that said you were part of this, even if you never bought a thing. Now, it’s another instrument of exclusion. The tote’s decline isn’t just logistical; it’s ideological. It reflects how the art world has learned to curate access down to the smallest detail—who receives what, when and why.
This is cultural gatekeeping disguised as environmental ethics and aesthetic restraint. The limited tote has become a metaphor for the limited welcome: access rebranded as luxury. The gesture of inclusion—once as simple as a printed cotton bag—has been replaced with the performance of restraint, the illusion of sustainability and the fetish of scarcity.
And maybe that’s why I can’t let it go. Because the tote was never just a bag. It was the art world’s one small, unspoken promise: you can take something with you. Now even that is being withheld.
I still carry my 2019 Frieze tote—the last of a generous era, its seams soft from use and its logo fading like a memory. It reminds me of a time when the art world gave things away, even if only in the form of cotton and ink. That may sound sentimental, but the tote was never just about utility. It was a quiet marker of belonging, a small form of mutual recognition. You didn’t have to be a collector or a critic to earn one—you just had to show up. It said: You were here. You mattered enough to be counted. That simple gesture, repeated across cities and years, stitched together a loose, global community of people who moved through these spaces—not always welcomed, but present.
Now that gesture has been repackaged as scarcity. The tote has become a microcosm of the broader art world shift from participation to performance, from shared experience to selective admission. To withhold something as harmless as a tote bag—a piece of fabric worth less than a glass of champagne—signals that inclusion itself has become a commodity. We’ve aestheticized access.
What used to be an act of welcome has turned into a ritual of verification. “You get one, you don’t.” A cotton caste system disguised as environmental responsibility. It’s the same logic that governs the fair’s architecture—who’s upstairs, who’s in the main tent, who’s across the river—just condensed into merch. Gatekeeping, but make it canvas.
And so the tote becomes both metaphor and artifact—the perfect expression of an art world that trades on the language of accessibility while guarding the gates tighter than ever. The fairs are full of talk about diversity, sustainability and public engagement, but even their free cotton is being curated. We talk about transparency while operating like an algorithm—invisible rules deciding who gets to take something home.
If art is supposed to reflect its time, then the decline of the tote tells a very contemporary story: how generosity has been rebranded as exclusivity, how community has become content and how even belonging now requires a barcode.
I think often about that moment at TEFAF—the staffer’s embarrassed shrug, the absence of something so trivial yet so symbolic. That was the tell. The tote didn’t just disappear; it was taken away deliberately, a gesture so small it almost escaped notice. But that’s how cultural gatekeeping works—not with grand declarations, but with quiet omissions, with the slow evaporation of the things that once made you feel included.
When the art world stops giving away tote bags, it’s not just the merch that’s missing. It’s the ethos—the idea that we were all, for a fleeting moment, part of the same conversation. The tote wasn’t just cotton; it was continuity.
And maybe that’s what I miss most: the easy generosity of it all. The unspoken exchange—art for presence, cotton for curiosity. The sense that you could still leave a fair with something tangible, even if you came empty-handed. That you could belong, if only by holding the handle.
Now the tote lives behind the counter, available for purchase—a literal paywall made of fabric. The art world’s most democratic object turned into another limited edition. Maybe that’s the perfect symbol for where we are now: a culture that keeps talking about access while quietly shrinking the circle of who gets to carry the bag.
When the art world starts hoarding tote bags, you know generosity has gone out of style.
Explore exhibition reviews
Other Articles
The art of wearing a suit according to Savile Row’s Molly Anderson
No Comment! Be the first one.