If you’re in the vicinity of Regent’s Park in the next five days, you’re likely to spot a disproportionately high number of Hermès Birkin bags being toted among the picturesque autumnal leaves.
That’s because it’s time again for Frieze, the London art fair that draws the great and the glamorous of the art world to the capital every October. Across Frieze London and its spin-off, Frieze Masters, some 280 galleries set up shop across a series of white tents for collectors, gallerists, buyers and celebrities to peruse (and, with any luck, buy) a dizzying array of art.
The masterpieces may be magnificent, but far more interesting for anyone even vaguely interested in fashion are the outfits. This high court of contemporary and classical art is frequently graced by fully fledged fashion royalty. On the first day of Frieze 2025, Claudia Schiffer showed up with Mario Testino, the former in jeans and a tweed blazer with a Chloé Paddington swinging from her arm.
Mario Testino and Claudia Schiffer at Wednesday night’s Frieze art fair preview – Dave Benett
On Wednesday evening – at one of the many glitzy art events that happens during Frieze – it was the Brit crowd that descended. Lily Allen showed up, Birkin in hand, leopard-print boots adding a little personality to her all-black ensemble. Erin O’Connor followed suit, as did Patsy Kensit, who appeared with her son Lennon Gallagher (and his girlfriend, Isobel Richmond).
Lily Allen attends the De Beers private view of ‘Voyage Through The Diamond Realm’ at Frieze Masters – Dave Benett
Erin O’Connor, also at the De Beers event – Dave Benett
Patsy Kensit (centre) with her son Lennon Gallagher and his girlfriend, Isobel Richmond – Dave Benett
The unofficial Frieze dress code
It’s not just the famous faces in outfits of note. As with any ritzy event, an unofficial dress code has taken shape among Frieze guests over the years. This is where quiet luxury gets hip, where there are just as many On trainers and Cos jackets as there are Birkins and bling.
This year was no exception, as photographer Geoff Pugh and I discovered when we headed to Regent’s Park on opening day. There were plenty of stylish guests to gawp – make that gaze – at, and more than a few trends taking shape among the “affluent aesthete” set.
One of the most striking things is the footwear. Frieze is not a place for heels, as Madeleine Martin, a particularly chic guest, reliably informed me. All that trekking around gallery spaces requires a comfortable shoe, so trainers are far from a faux pas (in fact, anything higher than a kitten heel feels like the mark of an interloper).
Madeleine Martin wears sneakers from the Loewe X On collaboration – Geoff Pugh
Bonus points if your sneaks are from a designer collaboration, as Martin’s Loewe X On shoes were. She wore these with a suitably high-low look that featured silky Toteme trousers and a Uniqlo jumper tied around the shoulders of a Holzweiler jacket and Dries Van Noten shirt.
Raven Smith opts for a sharp navy coat by Dries Van Noten with trousers by The Row – Geoff Pugh
There was a hefty dose of Dries about, in fact. Raven Smith could be spotted in a sharp navy coat by the Belgian designer, which he accessorised with an Alighieri brooch, over trousers by The Row. The shoes? His “trusty Adidas” trainers, of course. Plenty of Maison Margiela’s divisive split-toe Tabis could also be spotted among the crowd.
Monochrome rules
Another guest (who preferred not to be named) stood out in a monochrome look that featured a Dries skirt with an Alaïa jacket and bag. The stylist responsible for the look, Jenny McIlhatton, was standing by with some sage wisdom about Frieze dressing.
Stylist Jenny McIlhatton put together this look, featuring a Dries skirt and Alaïa jacket and bag – Geoff Pugh
“As a collector, it’s important to be chic and stylish but also comfortable,” she says. “It’s about having a conversation with the art and paying homage to it without overwhelming it. You could have one thing that’s a little bit fun, but you don’t want to look like you’re competing with the pieces on the wall.”
Marie Humbert layers a Cos sweater and skirt with a sweater by Christie Brown – Geoff Pugh
Monochrome looks proved an effective way to achieve this balance. Actress Marie Humbert layered a Cos skirt with a shirt by Ghanaian designer Christie Brown and a Cos sweater, a Zara coat and a Saint Laurent bag. Yvonne Force Villareal opted for a tonal ensemble in a Norma Kamali set (chosen for its crease-free suitcase appeal) and a trench by The Frankie Shop.
Statement pieces
Muted tones may have dominated, but there were enough statements to keep maximalists entertained. The Norwegian-born, London-based designer Silje Vallevik wore a yellow tartan Joshua Kane suit that brought just a touch of Clueless style to the fair.
Silje Vallevik in a bold Joshua Kane suit – Geoff Pugh
Meanwhile, guest Victoria Genzini turned heads in a mint green Asos coat, and Paris Rouzati chose a Penny Lane style from Zazi. Equally popular was the statement skirt, as guest Nicola Crichton-Brown showed in raspberry-hued leather style from Samantha Cameron’s brand Cefinn (which will cease trading after this season), worn with a Valentino jacket.
Nicola Crichton-Brown pairs a Ceffin skirt with a Valentino jacket – Geoff Pugh
Paris Rouzati makes a statement in a coat by Zazi – Geoff Pugh
Victoria Genzini in a mint green Asos coat and Gucci bag – Geoff Pugh
Scroll on for more of our favourite looks…
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Art Universe 2025 | Vanity Fair
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