Enamelled jewellery in 2024: see the boundary-pushing designs revitalising an ancient art

Artisans tend to favour the grand feu – or “great fire” – enamelling technique in both jewellery and watchmaking. The method involves painting powdered silica directly onto a surface and then firing it in a kiln at high temperature. The time-consuming process is repeated multiple times and requires painstaking attention to control the firing temperature and create a rich, glossy look.

Buccellati also used enamel, alongside agate and mother-of-pearl, to bring life to new additions to its Opera Tulle collection last autumn. Here as well, enamel was used to create vibrant and deep shades of red – in this case, complementing the maison’s exceptional tulle technique, which laces gold across its intricate pieces in the shape of the house’s signature flower motif.

Watch dials particularly make use of enamel through miniature painting. One of the most celebrated artists of enamel miniature painting in watches is Anita Porchet, a Swiss artist who is frequently asked to create one-of-a-kind and limited edition timepieces. Her works have been commissioned by luxury Swiss watchmakers including Piaget, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

Some maisons take things even a step further, refining the craft of enamelling by developing new approaches that serve to enhance the imagery and emotion in their designs.

“By improving on traditional techniques such as guilloché and plique-à-jour enamel, we have succeeded in creating level surfaces akin to a painter’s canvas, while also instituting sculptural forms in spaces as small as a watch case,” he said.

It’s also a step forward in staying on top of emerging standards in the industry. “Our new formulas no longer use lead, a heretofore standard ingredient in enamel,” Bos added.

The maison revealed its new façonné enamel technique in this year’s Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté watch, part of the Extraordinary Dials collection. To create the dial, enamel is poured into a stainless-steel medium and shaped into a three-dimensional form, before being glazed at low temperature to prevent breakage. The artistry is enhanced with the setting of diamonds on tiny transparent enamel pieces.