Boucheron Art Nouveau ‘Juno’ Pendant Fetches $508,500 At Bonhams

Colored gems and signed jewels from important private collections led the way at Bonhams New York Jewels Sale held Thursday.

The top lot of the sale was an unsigned emerald and diamond necklace, composed of 15 graduated emerald-cut emeralds weighing approximately 116.50 carats. Each emerald is within a surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds, interspersed with clusters of pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The estimated total diamond weight is 67.20 carats. The piece fetched $597,400, more than three times its high estimate.

This was followed by a platinum ring centered with a 4.32-carat cushion-shaped unheated Kashmir sapphire further enhance with pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. It sold for $559,300, nearly four times its $150,000 high estimate.

The most promoted lot of the auction was an elaborate and artistic Boucheron Art Nouveau enamel, sapphire and diamond pendant, circa 1900 (top photo). The design features a female form of carved white jadeite depicting the goddess Juno, the queen of the gods, goddess of marriage, and protector of women and the family. Her hair is of textured gold and crowned with blue, green and purple enamel, accented by old European-cut diamonds and gold beads. Her dress of purple enamel is set with a cushion-shaped yellow sapphire framed by old European-cut diamonds. The pendant, which was exhibited at the 1900 Paris World’s Fair, fetched $508,500, well above its estimates.

This was followed by a platinum ring centered with an approximate 4-carat oval-shaped unheated Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil. The gem is surrounded by more than 3 carats of pear and marquise-shaped diamonds. It sold for $483,100.

An unsigned multi-gem 18k white gold pendant with a 50.63-carat unheated rectangular-cut spinel within a frame of round brilliant, baguette and tapered baguette-cut diamonds sold for $470,400. The auction house amended the origin of the spinel from Sri Lanka to Tajikistan, based on an American Gemological Laboratories report. Suspended from the centerpiece is two round pearls and a 7.8-carat briolette-cut emerald and more diamonds.

The next lot was a pair of emerald and diamond earclips. Each centering an emerald-cut emerald, within a surround of pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut diamonds from the Piranesi jewelry house. The estimated weight of the emeralds are 26 and 26.45 carats. The earclips sold for $445,000, more than five times its high estimate.

A rare René Boivin colored diamond orchid brooch, circa 1939, fetched $267,200, exceeding its high estimate. The petals of the broch are set with round brilliant and old European-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round brilliant, old European and single-cut diamonds of yellow tint. The brooch has an estimated total diamond weight of 20 25.00 carats and estimated total colored diamond weight of 15.30 carats.

The number eight lot of the sale was a triple swag platinum necklace featuring oval-shaped rubies, each within a surround of circular diamonds. The estimated total ruby weight is 43 carats and the estimated total diamond weight is 86.50 carats. It fetched $229,100.

Approximately 905 of the 123 lots in the auction sold. However, there were some high-profile lots that failed to find a buyer. Among them was the top lot of the sale based on estimates. A 14.52-carat fancy heart-shaped light-blue diamond on a ring surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamonds and diamonds with a pink tint. Its estimate was $2 million to $3 million.

Another lot that didn’t sell was a pair of of Taffin diamond earclips. Each centered with a square emerald-cut diamond, one weighing 5.16 carats and the other weighing 5.04 carats. Its estimate was $160,000 – $240,000.