The art of the runway: fashion shows that changed history

By the mid-20th century, especially after World War II, runway shows became central to the fashion industry – a key tool for setting trends, defining brand identity, and attracting buyers and press.

Over time, presentations moved from intimate Paris ateliers to global Fashion Weeks, and from salon-like gatherings to high-production spectacles generating viral images and strong brand narratives.

The modern Fashion Week system began in New York in 1943 with “Press Week,” organized by publicist Eleanor Lambert during World War II when journalists could not travel to Paris. The format later expanded globally: Paris as the couture capital, Milan emerging in the 1950s–60s, and London launching its official Fashion Week in 1984.

The exhibition revisits iconic shows through film, photography, original garments, props and archival material, aiming to recreate the runway experience from its earliest days to today.

According to curator Kirsty Hassard, fashion shows are “moments of revelation – they bring together a multitude of disciplines, including hair and makeup, set design, graphics, lighting, photography, music and many more.”

She added: “The exhibition explores the dreams and motivations behind these shows, and shows how designers shaped not only what we wear, but how we see ourselves.”

Another key work is Hussein Chalayan’s “After words” (2000), widely regarded as one of the most important fashion shows ever staged. In it, furniture was transformed into garments, blurring the line between objects and clothing, while also addressing themes of displacement and identity.

Chalayan’s work reflected his own background, being Turkish decent while born in Cyprus, and explored ideas of home, exile and geopolitical trauma – presenting fashion not only as clothing, but as a medium for storytelling and collective memory.